Fall Sewing Plans

A third post...in one week?  You're asking yourself, is Emily feeling okay?  Well, no, I'm not.  I'm sick in bed at home, presumably with food poisoning, so I need something to pass the time between work emails.  Can I just say, isn't working remotely such a wonder?  I'm someone who feels terrible for missing work, and I don't take "mental health days" or anything (OCD with some overachiever playing heavily), so being able to work while propped up with pillows and some pets is fine with me.

Anyway, it's mid-August, which means fall is practically here.  Can you smell it?  In Charlotte, while we're a ways away from actual fall--at least a month--it is getting cooler and the light has changed outside.  Soon Pumpkin Spiced lattes will be available and I'll buy some mums for the front porch.  Soon!

I would like to sew some garments for fall, despite my lack of sewn clothing lately.  I find fall and spring clothes the best to sew, perhaps because they're my favorite seasons.  I'd love to sew more summer dresses, but if I even think of wearing a lining in the summer, I melt immediately.  Just like that, in my closet, from heat exhaustion.  And let's not get started on winter.  But fall is inspirational and beautiful.  I must plan!

Here's what I've planned so far:

First and foremost, I need a Colette Anise.  Need it!  Version 1, with covered buttons, please.  My mom gave me black-and-white houndstooth wool, which I was so excited to use...until I saw I'd need over three yards, and only had 2.5.  If you've made this, how are the cutting layouts?  Would 2.5 work?  Otherwise, I need to find some wool!

Next is the Colette Hawthorn (again), version 1.  I do enjoy a good peplum!  My reservations about this pattern are all about the bust, but I think reducing the seam allowances will help with that.  Plus, I have this amazing cut of Liberty stashed:

I could wear this with black pants to work, jeans on the weekend, and pencil skirts too!  I'd like to find red buttons but those are negotiable.

Third on the list--another Rooibos!  I really love the one I made last winter but it's wool gabardine and is heavy.  However, it's really cute and fits well.  Now, here's a crazy thought: what if I used the black and white houndstooth for this dress?  Is it too much?  For reference, here's a good example of the size of the pattern:

Is it too crazy?  In a bad way?  I need your thoughts!

Do PJs count?  These are on my to-do list for sure.  I change into pajamas as soon as I get home from work, so I really can't have too many.  I've heard awesome things about these--the fit is spot-on!--and really want to make some comfy pajama pants for fall--and also for Christmas!  (I can't be the only one who wears new pajamas on Christmas!)

Birch Fabrics is debuting their Charley Harper line--I'm dying, it's so good--and they'll have a flannel line!  I should use the cardinals for Christmas, right?

But for everyday use, Cloud9 has teamed up with Rae from Made by Rae for her new flannel line, Fanfare.  I think the Confetti print is perfect for jammies:

What are your fall sewing plans?  I'm also very excited to see the new patterns come out this fall.  I'm sure I'll need those too!

An Ill-Timed Minoru

A confession: my title isn't very accurate.  While it seems inappropriate to make a jacket in April in North Carolina--with 80-degree-days staying through September--I am going to Chicago in less than three weeks (where are my party emojis when I need them?) and I usually am the same size year in, year out, so chances are pretty good that I'll have this jacket longer than a season.

What can be said about the Minoru jacket by Sewaholic that hasn't already been said?  The Chicago trip was what gave me the final push, but I've been wanting to make one for months now and just never found the right fabric.  I can't tell you how many times I've looked at fabric online, added some wool or twill to my cart, and then closed out of the site, unsure of my choices and decided to procrastinate than buy the wrong fabric.  As if there is such a thing.

Once there was a deadline--May 9!--I had to get my ass in gear.

I finally decided on organic cotton twill from Fabric.com.  Does the organic matter?  I'm not sure--it's cotton twill, not a strawberry--but the price was right and I wanted charcoal gray, one of my favorite colors, which wasn't available in the "regular" cotton twill.  The last time I sewed anything resembling twill was during the Great Shorts Experiment of 2012, which, coincidentally, was also the last time I used a Sewaholic pattern (I think).  Every time I use one of Tasia's patterns, however, I'm reminded of how good they are: they fit so well and, while the instructions are sometimes lacking, there's so much on the internet (between sewalongs and personal reviews) that I never have a problem.  In fact, I don't think I even used the written instructions for this jacket--I followed the sewalong and that was enough.

The lining is Edenham from Liberty of London.  Yes, it's Tana Lawn.  Yes, I know, it's a lining.  This was not an easy decision to make, despite how quickly I fell in love with it.  The price, first of all, was a major staller.  Spending that much just on lining fabric would render a me-made jacket less economical than buying one from Macy's.  Second, this wasn't a tried-and-true pattern, and as I mentioned in my last post, things could have gone horrible wrong.  Was I willing to risk 2.5 yards of Liberty?  Apparently I was feeling optimistic, because I bought it (from Pink Chalk Fabrics--I love their selection, even if it's smaller than Purl) and it arrived and now it's a lining, so whatever.

As a note, it sewed up beautifully, as expected.

The beginnings 

Hemming

I made a straight size 8, no alterations, though if I were making one for winter I'd probably make a 10 to accomodate layers.  I don't plan on wearing more than a light sweater or a shirt in Chicago, which makes this the layering piece, and lightweight at that.  It's in the 60s here today, so it wasn't sweltering when I dragged Nick outside to take pictures, but I think it'll make a nice coverup for breezes and chilly mornings walking to the donut shop.

Nick, thankfully, overdoes it when I make him take pictures, so have at it:

Nick mentioned it looked like a trench coat from the back.  I can see that!  My elastic didn't bunch as much as I expected, which is totally fine.  I love how it fits.

In every single picture it looks like my hems are uneven.  I promise you, they aren't.

The sleeves are a bit long, but I think I can always roll them up if I need to.  Honestly, I'm so happy with this, and am so pleased with how easily it came together.  The only part I swore during was inserting the elastic, because elastic never has been, and never will be, my friend.

So that's that!  In other news, we have a final count of 31 containers in our garden:

This is only one side of the patio, but I've shown them all on Instagram.  That little red one that looks out of place is my cousin's; I planted sweet pea and zinnias for her yesterday and haven't been able to get to her house yet!  It's a neat little deck planter.  Hopefully it doesn't fall!  I'm also giving her my desk succulent, because I smothered it with love and it rebelled, choosing to wilt from my kisses and water.  Fine.  Suit yourself, loser.

I hope spring is coming your way soon!  And I hope Nick mows the lawn soon.  Good god, we're that house on the block.

Fall Sewing - For Real

Almost two months ago I laid out my plans for fall sewing.  I hate to say it, but wow, I was naive!  I also hadn't yet started quilting, or I was in the very early stages of my newest obsession.  I believe we've seen the effects since that new hobby took off: I'm spending less time here and more time on Squaring Up, I've finished three full-sized quilt tops and three mini quilts, and my clothing plans are falling apart--quickly.

This is an attempt to put things back into perspective.

Of the four patterns I listed in August's post, I've made two, and I've blogged them.  Okay, so that's not terrible.  But when I look at my project goal page, I see a lot missing.  I've come to accept that there are quite a few patterns that will never get made, and I think that's fine and, in fact, normal.  What seamstress doesn't buy patterns and then just file them away?  But there are a lot of garments I want to make, and I simply need to get my priorities straight.  Hopefully, that won't be too difficult.  Though I have another quilt I'd like to make, I am not on a deadline for it.  We also aren't exchanging family Christmas presents this year (Nick and I are still exchanging, though), so any handmade presents have dropped off my radar.

So, let's see if we can get a plan for this.

1. Colette Rooibos

I don't actually know what my problem is here.  I've been flirting with this pattern for well over a year and just can't seem to seal the deal.  I have the shell and lining fabrics, so all I'd need is a zipper and maybe some piping.  This is something I just need to do.  I'm going to put a deadline of Thanksgiving on this.

2. Serendipity Studio Sabrina Tunic

Wow, there is a lot going on in that picture.  Wow.  Anyway, this is another project that I have no excuse for.  I bought some Bella with this tunic in mind, and it's been sitting--unwashed, however--since before we went to Beaufort.  This top will take me maybe an afternoon to complete.  I give it a deadline of next Sunday.

3. Sewaholic Minorou Jacket

This is a new addition to my sewing goals.  When it debuted last year, I felt very "meh," because the line drawing looks like a weird puffer jacket or something.  I have one of those, and I love it, but I most definitely don't want to make one.  However, now that a million people on Flickr have made it, I want to make one too.  If we do get to move back south this winter, this is the perfect weight for most of the fall and winter: a few days need a heavy coat, but lined canvas will cut the chill pretty effectively.  I'm giving this a deadline of Halloween.

4. Colette Sencha blouse

I bought this before we went to Beaufort with intentions to make something for the Beer Fest.  Well, obviously that didn't happen, but I still got a good deal on the pattern.  I'm a bit torn on what to make this with.  On one hand, I have some Flea Market Fancy that I've been saving for a blouse, and version 1 would be adorable.  On the other...more Flea Market Fancy, Emily?  It's a good thing you've got a ring on your finger, because most men would be scared.  I'm giving this a deadline of October 15.

5. Oliver + S Jump Rope dress

Obviously, this isn't for me.  It really isn't for anyone, but it's a cute dress.  I have view B in mind, which has front pockets and a tab collar, but no tie.  I bought the last of Aneela Hoey's puppies from my LQS in August, and this would be cute in it, maybe with some red chevron as an accent.  This isn't high priority, so I'll give this until December 1.

6. Oliver + S Hopscotch Skirt

Again, this isn't for me, nor do I have anything in mind for it.  I'm mostly interested in those pockets--I love the shape and think they'd be great to adapt for something for me, but first I'd have to learn how to make them!  This is getting a priority of December 15.

7. Colette Patterns Macaron

I'm not gonna lie: I'm a bit terrified of this dress.  I've heard about fitting issues and I struggle with the fabric choice.  I don't even have fabric waiting for this because I've been so nervous!  I'm open to suggestions, if anyone has an idea.  I'll give this a deadline of November 15, but that's flexible.

Two patterns--Sewaholic Alma and Sew Liberated Ashland--are nice but I don't know that I'll have time for them, or really even a need.  I don't own them yet, and it seems that, the longer I wait, the less I want to follow through, at least at this time.

Finally, all those Simplicity patterns at the end of the list--1880, 1873, 1885, 1872, 1877--are so off my radar right now that I don't even want to deal with them.  I bought them last winter, thinking they'd all be great for spring.  And guess what?  Nothing was made!  So forget it, I say.  I'm tempted to delete them, even.  I feel like that's cheating, but if they aren't going to get made, they're unnecessary.

What do you think--is this doable?  Sorry the post was so long, but I needed to get everything out so my mind could organize and plan.  My friend told me about teuxdeux.com last week, so I might set up a to-do list there in order to meet all my goals.

Fall Sewing, or, I'm Rushing the Season Yet Again

It's August, so basically that means all I think about fall.  Technically I've been thinking about fall since spring ended, except for a week where I was excited to wear shorts, but because we're so close now--so so close!--I'm just ready to start preparing.  Sweaters?  Check!  Pumpkin decorations?  Check!  Candles that smell like leaves?  Check and check!  I'm also starting to think about what I want to sew for fall.

Don't act surprised.  You knew we were getting there.  It's all I talk about!

Besides the quilts I have planned (oh yes, go to Squaring Up for more on that!), I have lots in store for clothes.  My closet is already bursting at the seams; it couldn't hurt to add in a few more things!

First off, has everyone seen the Alma blouse from Sewaholic?  It was released yesterday and mentioned in the newsletter earlier this week.  Here it is:

Beautiful, right?  The Peter Pan collar, the notched neckline, the darts!  Wonderful.  I'd love to make this in a Nani Iro polka dot, but at $20 a yard, that most likely won't happen.  But maybe I can find a different polka dot instead?

Ah yes, my old friend Rooibos.  I meant to make you last August...and then last February...and now here we are again!  I still have wool gabardine and lining in my stash.  Maybe I'll finally get around to it this year.

But we also have Beignet!  I have seen so many adorable versions of this skirt on Flickr lately, and every time I see it, I say, really, I'm going to make it now!  Have I yet?  Nope.  I bought some charcoal gray corduroy--but like a herringbone wale, if that makes sense.  Whatever, it was from Denver Fabrics--last fall and have enough to make this.  I'm a little worried about the high-waistedness.  Have you made it?  What did you think?

The only thing stopping me from making this right now (or this weekend, I guess) is that I don't have matching thread.  I have fabric, buttons, interfacing.  I'm hoping it will turn out okay; otherwise, I'll probably wish I had made another Jasmine!

I'm sure this list will grow as more patterns are released for fall.  Isn't that always how it is?  I also know I'd like to make a Sencha after seeing Trudy Campbell on a second-season Mad Men wearing a back-button blouse.  But I don't own that pattern yet--even though it's on my wishlist!  It will be mine soon enough.

What are you thinking about?  Any other fall diehards out there?  Let's glitter some pumpkins together!  (Done it before, I'll do it again)

Project 17: Sewaholic Thurlow Shorts

Sometimes the third time really is the charm.  After last week's horrible, terrible, no good, very bad shorts, I finally found a pattern that works!  Granted, I did make a lot of mistakes while making these, but at the end, I asked myself, are the wearable?  Yes.  Did I learn something?  Yes!  Many things.  So, onto...the Sewaholic Thurlow shorts.

I'd like to apologize in advance for the photos.  It's dreary out and I finished the shorts at 11:15 last night, so natural light just isn't cooperating.

Pattern Description
Shorts and pants with back extension, belt loops, welt pockets and zipper fly.  This is view B, the shorts.

Pattern Sizing
Available in 0-16.  This is a straight size 10, but now that I've tried them on again this morning, I probably could have made a 6 or 8.  These are "fat day" shorts for sure.

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?
They are definitely shorts, but I didn't make a ribbon belt and I opted for a wide hem instead of a cuff.  I'm not a cuff girl, as much as I sometimes would like to be.

Belly shots are not my classiest moment, but at least my tattoos are hidden.  (Not a joke, I have two tattoos on my hips.)

Were the instructions easy to follow?

No, but I'm totally conflicted about this.  In my last Sewaholic review, I mentioned that one of the things I really liked was the lack of repetitive instructions--I don't need to read how to insert an invisible zipper or finish a seam every time I make something.  I got it.  But given the number of new techniques--welt pockets, fly zipper--I feel like there should have been more detail to the instructions.  While this is a wearable garment, it's far from perfect, and a lot of times I felt lost while reading the directions.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked that they fit!  And they don't look terrible--they'll look even better in a smaller size.  And I'm really starting to love Tasia's patterns.  I'm considering the Pendrell blouse next, but I know she has another blouse coming out fairly soon and I'd like to see that first!

Fabric used

Mint green cotton twill and polka dotted lining, both from Denver Fabrics.  I was able to squeeze a size 10 out of 1 1/8 yards of the twill, which is amazing.

Pattern alterations or any design changes made

I opted for the wide hem, like I said.  For the most part, my alterations were complete mistakes--for example, I sewed the waistband incorrectly, and didn't realize until it was too late.  I also cut the fly facing out backwards, so the interfacing is visible.  Whoops!

Wrinkly butt is always a good thing, right?

Would you sew it again?

Probably.  I'm debating on whether or not to use the Viewmasters for it.  That was my original intent, but now I'm wondering if that isn't the greatest idea.

Conclusion

I am so glad I didn't give up on shorts!  However, I'd also like to mention I broke three needles while working on this project.  On a side note, I need to buy some needles.  I also need a serger and room for a serger stat.  I hated zigzagging those seams and they are a hot mess.

So I'm glad I gave it a whirl.  Sorry for the low quality pictures.

Also, check out all the stuff I got this week!

Needless to say, I'm a little broke at the moment!  I also won six yards of Denyse Schmidt's new line Chicopee from Pink Chalk Fabrics.  Woohoo!!

Have you tried the Thurlow shorts yet?  Are you angry that I showed my belly and my butt in one post?  Let me have it, folks, I can handle your rage.

Project 15: Sewaholic Cambie dress

This heat is making me incredibly unproductive.  I just want to lay around and nap, only waking to eat something really unhealthy just because.  It's supposed to cool down to the 80s this week, which is awesome, because maybe it'll give me the kick needed to get some stuff done.

Alright, I started off a post with the weather, this is a great sign.

Yesterday I started sewing the Sewaholic Cambie dress, aka everyone's new favorite pattern.  I couldn't find a bad review of this pattern anywhere!  Of course that made me wonder if I'll be the only person in the world who has a problem with it.  Just like the Tova, it would be my luck.  Fortunately, that wasn't the case, and I'm pretty happy with it.  I'd like to know when I'll start realizing full dresses don't look great on my body, but whatever, y'all can deal with it. 

The cross-eyed wonder

Pattern Description

Two versions of a sweetheart-neckline dress: one with a straight skirt and one with a full skirt.  This is view B, the full skirt.

Pattern Sizing

Available in 0-16.  This is a straight size 10, no adjustments.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the envelope once you were done with it?

Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very!  This was my first Sewaholic pattern so I wasn't sure what to expect, but I figured everyone loves Tasia's patterns for a reason, right?  Also, she had a great tutorial on her blog to explain how to insert the lining--that was really helpful!

This dress used almost an entire spool of thread.  I bought this yesterday because I didn't have any thread that matched.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I loved that the instructions were succinct and assumed you knew how to insert a zipper, etc., already--I don't need an explanation each time!  I loved the online resources available.  Also, this is my first sweetheart neckline and definitely won't be my last!

Fabric used

Royal blue dotted Swiss and light blue cotton batiste, both from Denver Fabrics

Pattern alterations or any changes you made

No alterations to the pattern, but I decided to make both dresses (lining and shell) in tandem.  I don't like having the extra pattern pieces floating around if it isn't necessary.

Would you sew it again?

Yes!  I want to go through my stash and see if I have enough fabric to make view A.

Conclusion

I now understand why everyone loves this pattern.

So the only problem I have is that I don't know where to wear this.  Is it work appropriate?  I feel like it'd be great for a wedding shower or baby shower, but I don't attend either of those...hmm.  And then part of me wants to just wear it while riding a bike or going on a picnic, which poses another problem--I don't own a bike and don't have anywhere to picnic.  Where do you think I should wear it?