Fall Sewing - For Real

Almost two months ago I laid out my plans for fall sewing.  I hate to say it, but wow, I was naive!  I also hadn't yet started quilting, or I was in the very early stages of my newest obsession.  I believe we've seen the effects since that new hobby took off: I'm spending less time here and more time on Squaring Up, I've finished three full-sized quilt tops and three mini quilts, and my clothing plans are falling apart--quickly.

This is an attempt to put things back into perspective.

Of the four patterns I listed in August's post, I've made two, and I've blogged them.  Okay, so that's not terrible.  But when I look at my project goal page, I see a lot missing.  I've come to accept that there are quite a few patterns that will never get made, and I think that's fine and, in fact, normal.  What seamstress doesn't buy patterns and then just file them away?  But there are a lot of garments I want to make, and I simply need to get my priorities straight.  Hopefully, that won't be too difficult.  Though I have another quilt I'd like to make, I am not on a deadline for it.  We also aren't exchanging family Christmas presents this year (Nick and I are still exchanging, though), so any handmade presents have dropped off my radar.

So, let's see if we can get a plan for this.

1. Colette Rooibos

I don't actually know what my problem is here.  I've been flirting with this pattern for well over a year and just can't seem to seal the deal.  I have the shell and lining fabrics, so all I'd need is a zipper and maybe some piping.  This is something I just need to do.  I'm going to put a deadline of Thanksgiving on this.

2. Serendipity Studio Sabrina Tunic

Wow, there is a lot going on in that picture.  Wow.  Anyway, this is another project that I have no excuse for.  I bought some Bella with this tunic in mind, and it's been sitting--unwashed, however--since before we went to Beaufort.  This top will take me maybe an afternoon to complete.  I give it a deadline of next Sunday.

3. Sewaholic Minorou Jacket

This is a new addition to my sewing goals.  When it debuted last year, I felt very "meh," because the line drawing looks like a weird puffer jacket or something.  I have one of those, and I love it, but I most definitely don't want to make one.  However, now that a million people on Flickr have made it, I want to make one too.  If we do get to move back south this winter, this is the perfect weight for most of the fall and winter: a few days need a heavy coat, but lined canvas will cut the chill pretty effectively.  I'm giving this a deadline of Halloween.

4. Colette Sencha blouse

I bought this before we went to Beaufort with intentions to make something for the Beer Fest.  Well, obviously that didn't happen, but I still got a good deal on the pattern.  I'm a bit torn on what to make this with.  On one hand, I have some Flea Market Fancy that I've been saving for a blouse, and version 1 would be adorable.  On the other...more Flea Market Fancy, Emily?  It's a good thing you've got a ring on your finger, because most men would be scared.  I'm giving this a deadline of October 15.

5. Oliver + S Jump Rope dress

Obviously, this isn't for me.  It really isn't for anyone, but it's a cute dress.  I have view B in mind, which has front pockets and a tab collar, but no tie.  I bought the last of Aneela Hoey's puppies from my LQS in August, and this would be cute in it, maybe with some red chevron as an accent.  This isn't high priority, so I'll give this until December 1.

6. Oliver + S Hopscotch Skirt

Again, this isn't for me, nor do I have anything in mind for it.  I'm mostly interested in those pockets--I love the shape and think they'd be great to adapt for something for me, but first I'd have to learn how to make them!  This is getting a priority of December 15.

7. Colette Patterns Macaron

I'm not gonna lie: I'm a bit terrified of this dress.  I've heard about fitting issues and I struggle with the fabric choice.  I don't even have fabric waiting for this because I've been so nervous!  I'm open to suggestions, if anyone has an idea.  I'll give this a deadline of November 15, but that's flexible.

Two patterns--Sewaholic Alma and Sew Liberated Ashland--are nice but I don't know that I'll have time for them, or really even a need.  I don't own them yet, and it seems that, the longer I wait, the less I want to follow through, at least at this time.

Finally, all those Simplicity patterns at the end of the list--1880, 1873, 1885, 1872, 1877--are so off my radar right now that I don't even want to deal with them.  I bought them last winter, thinking they'd all be great for spring.  And guess what?  Nothing was made!  So forget it, I say.  I'm tempted to delete them, even.  I feel like that's cheating, but if they aren't going to get made, they're unnecessary.

What do you think--is this doable?  Sorry the post was so long, but I needed to get everything out so my mind could organize and plan.  My friend told me about teuxdeux.com last week, so I might set up a to-do list there in order to meet all my goals.

Fall Sewing, or, I'm Rushing the Season Yet Again

It's August, so basically that means all I think about fall.  Technically I've been thinking about fall since spring ended, except for a week where I was excited to wear shorts, but because we're so close now--so so close!--I'm just ready to start preparing.  Sweaters?  Check!  Pumpkin decorations?  Check!  Candles that smell like leaves?  Check and check!  I'm also starting to think about what I want to sew for fall.

Don't act surprised.  You knew we were getting there.  It's all I talk about!

Besides the quilts I have planned (oh yes, go to Squaring Up for more on that!), I have lots in store for clothes.  My closet is already bursting at the seams; it couldn't hurt to add in a few more things!

First off, has everyone seen the Alma blouse from Sewaholic?  It was released yesterday and mentioned in the newsletter earlier this week.  Here it is:

Beautiful, right?  The Peter Pan collar, the notched neckline, the darts!  Wonderful.  I'd love to make this in a Nani Iro polka dot, but at $20 a yard, that most likely won't happen.  But maybe I can find a different polka dot instead?

Ah yes, my old friend Rooibos.  I meant to make you last August...and then last February...and now here we are again!  I still have wool gabardine and lining in my stash.  Maybe I'll finally get around to it this year.

But we also have Beignet!  I have seen so many adorable versions of this skirt on Flickr lately, and every time I see it, I say, really, I'm going to make it now!  Have I yet?  Nope.  I bought some charcoal gray corduroy--but like a herringbone wale, if that makes sense.  Whatever, it was from Denver Fabrics--last fall and have enough to make this.  I'm a little worried about the high-waistedness.  Have you made it?  What did you think?

The only thing stopping me from making this right now (or this weekend, I guess) is that I don't have matching thread.  I have fabric, buttons, interfacing.  I'm hoping it will turn out okay; otherwise, I'll probably wish I had made another Jasmine!

I'm sure this list will grow as more patterns are released for fall.  Isn't that always how it is?  I also know I'd like to make a Sencha after seeing Trudy Campbell on a second-season Mad Men wearing a back-button blouse.  But I don't own that pattern yet--even though it's on my wishlist!  It will be mine soon enough.

What are you thinking about?  Any other fall diehards out there?  Let's glitter some pumpkins together!  (Done it before, I'll do it again)

A Tale of Two Shorts

Wow, admitting defeat is hard.  Admitting it with unflattering shorts is even harder.

This is a story of 24 hours, two shorts patterns, and lots of aqua twill.

I bought the Iris shorts recently and was looking forward to making them, especially because there have been lots of cute versions on Flickr and, well, I give in to peer pressure easily (see the Wiksten patterns for reference).  I had a gift card and decided to just go for it!  I've had some Lisette twill sitting around since March 2011 that would make a perfect wearable muslin, and in the meantime, I'd order the last two yards of Melody Miller Viewmasters anywhere and mint green twill to make for two versions.  I'd be adorable and I'd wear them to Savannah in August.  What would I wear with them?  That was seriously my biggest concern.  I hadn't even attempted the pattern yet and I was worried about coordination.  (Don't tell me you don't do that.)

How the mighty have fallen.

These shorts were a mess.  A mess!

So major props to my phone for producing such crappy pictures, but I wanted to send these to my mom before I made a final decision.  These were left unhemmed, because, by the time the yoke facing was in, I knew I was in trouble.  The instructions were easy, but something was wrong.  Things weren't looking great.  I have wrinkles everywhere and my butt is even wider and flatter than usual.  

I would also like to note that these are supposed to be worn about an inch below your natural waist.  These came exactly to my waist.  I have a very short torso, so high waists aren't my friend at all.  The cute vintage look isn't for me.  When I buy shorts retail (I prefer Old Navy, just btw) I buy a size larger to wear them even lower just so I look a little more like a normal person than I am.

Okay, so I chalked this up to a learning experience and decided to salvage the zipper and move on with my life.  I still have two (very expensive) yards of Viewmasters and the mint green twill, which I bought exactly enough of for the Iris shorts.  What to do?  I knew Simplicity patterns were on sale at JoAnn this weekend, and chose the Lisette Souvenir shorts (S1879) because they also have a pretty big Flickr presence.  They were a quick cut-out and this time I decided to go true muslin and baste the whole thing together, not interfacing or even cutting facings until I knew what I was in for.

Well.  These weren't good either.  I'd even say they are worse.

I basted the side seam together where the zipper would go in case I needed to adjust when I was putting them on.  I didn't even bother with a zipper in the muslin.

What the hell is going on with these shorts?  They also sit too high on my waist and there's about a yard of extra fabric in the crotch but not enough in the waist?  Also, if it was possible to make my wide butt look about three feet longer, well, these accomplished it.  God, that's just bad.

The fun thing about basting is that you can be the Incredible Hulk and rip your clothes off:

And then your cat wonders if that's a new pile she can sleep on.

So what should I do, everyone?  Stick to retail?  That's where I'm leaning right now.  I do need some ideas for 1 1/8 yards of mint green twill and 1 yard of polka dot lining that would have looked so cute with it--any good skirts that will work with that?  I wish there was enough for a Beignet...

Also, I would like to note that I don't wear all aqua outfits everyday.  I just happened to be a crayon yesterday and today.  The two days I take pictures of myself, of course.

Lately Links

Am I the worst post-titler or what?  It's not like I ever link to anything else on this site, but I wanted to share a few things I found around the internet this week (probably while I was waiting on emails or eating my lunch.  Right.).

• Eating Chicken, Solving Problems, On Dinner: A Love Story: I think everyone here knows I cook at least six nights a week (sometimes Nick cooks when we have fried chicken or pizza, but it's mostly me), and this article sums up why it's so important to me that we eat at home every night.  Besides the fact that we can't afford to eat out more than once a week, and besides the fact that we get four meals out of one dinner (we are also both religious lunch-takers--I haven't bought lunch since March), it makes me feel good to know that we're eating well and I know what we're eating, because we're young and we need to be healthy.  Yeah, I'm exhausted most nights, but the hour it takes me to make the food we eat is worth it.
• Paunnett's Hazel dress: I will admit that I didn't like the Hazel or the Lily dress when they first came out, but seeing some of the versions on Flickr has made me reconsider (I still wouldn't wear them myself, though).  Anna is awesome and this dress is gorgeous.  And I totally agree with her--it hurts my heart a little to cut into really nice/expensive/sentimental fabric, but it's fabric, and that's why we have it!
• DIY Glitter Collar on Refinery29: I probably need to make this, right?
• Just a Dash's Smoked Gouda and Sharp Cheddar Mac and Cheese: I found this on Pinterest and am adding it to the calendar.  I love to make macaroni and cheese (there's something about a bechamel sauce that is so comforting to me) and this recipe looks great.  We tried Mark Bittman's this week and I was less than thrilled with it.  Don't get me wrong, it's mac and cheese so it's good, but it still wasn't great.
• Vintage Bee Fabric on Etsy: Before I found out the Colette Patterns Macaron dress contest was only for fabric from Hart's Fabrics (lame, I couldn't find anything I liked well enough to buy for it, so I guess I'm out), this fabric was giving me some mad inspiration.
• And finally, my mom bought me a self-healing mat because she said I sounded pitiful about not having one.  I cut some Iris shorts out last night and only sliced my finger once!  Go me.

What's been on your mind lately?

Colette Patterns Embroidery Project

I woke up yesterday completely INSPIRED.  Yes, in all caps.  It had been a rough week at work followed by a rougher Friday night at home and I had gone to bed completely exhausted and over it.  I woke up before 8:00 on Saturday morning with sewing on my mind--I had to get going.  It was one of those forceful, you must do this now feelings, and I had to give in.

I've really been exploring hand embroidery lately (by "exploring," I mean, doing what I want and not always doing it correctly, because I'm too lazy to learn) and, despite the two dresses I have cut out and ready to sew, I've been focused on hand embroidery.  I can do it while watching TV and I'm not all bent over my sewing machine until 1 AM because of it.  It's relaxing.  Even though I love love love to sew, sometimes you need a change of pace!

Anyway, so I woke up yesterday knowing what my next project would be: embroidered versions of all the Colette patterns I own.  I think I own eight, plus the book, and most have line drawings on the front cover (except Chantilly, which is still the old watercolor version).  Line drawings are perfect for embroidery.  Why hadn't I considered this before?

Project 14: The Truffle Dress

I saw on a blog recently a quote: Done is better than perfect.  I think this dress really embodies that saying.

The sad thing is, I was so ambitious and so ready for this.  I've been holding onto this voile for months, knowing I'd make this dress with it.  I bought nice batiste lining from G Street.  I even cut out the pieces to make sure the stripes matched.  This has been planned and replanned.  Maybe that's its fatal flaw?  Perhaps I didn't plan for the failure.

And honestly, I think I'm being harsh when I say failure.  Does it fit?  Yes.  Does the zipper work?  Yes, and it's invisible, which is always a plus.  But I built this dress up in my head and of course it didn't work once it was done.  I put the pattern on a pedestal.

Anyway...

Pattern Description
Sleeve dress with darts, bodice lining and invisible zipper.  Pattern also called for a ruffle at waist.

Pattern Sizing
0-18.  I cut an 8 for the bodice and a 10 for the skirt.

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?
I suppose, though I omitted the ruffle.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well.  I followed the instructions, but still effed up majorly.  Once the invisible zipper was in and I'd sewn the side seams, I realized my straps were both twisted.  I had to rip out the side and shoulder seams in the bodice, try to restitch that mess correctly, and fix it.  Well, needless to say the shoulders are a hot mess because of it.  Oh, and then once I tried it on, I realized the shoulders were way too big, and I had to make them another 5/8" shorter.  (Really, they could've gone to 3/4", but I was so over it.)

What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?
The darts were my worst enemy.  Seriously, the first hour of sewing was just darts.  Now, I did add in a skirt lining, so that was an additional four darts.  But damn, I'd rather have gathering, and I hate gathering.

Also, at some point I could remember thinking, This looks easy enough!  Oh, how I came to regret those words...

Fabric Used
Anna Maria Horner voile.  I hoarded this stuff after buying it on sale at Del Ray Fabrics this past January.  It's really lovely, too, but the whole time I was sewing I worried about it.  I didn't want to have to toss it!

Oh, and I used a light blue batiste for the lining.

Stylized

Pattern changes or alterations made
I didn't do the waist ruffle thing--I'm just not into that, and I didn't have enough fabric.  After the botched straps I kinda just went with it and figured no one would ever be close enough to see my stitching, so that just was messy.  Oh, and for the life of me I couldn't figure out the Colette instructions on attaching the lining to the zipper, so that was improvised too.

Would you sew it again?
Probably not.  It exhausted me.

Conclusion
Don't hype the pattern up--you'll only let yourself down.  Don't drink coffee at 9 AM and then stop eating until dinner--your anxiety will heighten.  Don't let your new machine get the best of you, and don't get annoyed with your mom--she's only trying to help.

So I'm exhausted from this, and then making dinner and a strawberry cake for dessert...I'd like my next project to just be simple.  Brainless.  Something I know I'll do well with because this was just too much.

What'd you sew over the weekend?

Colette Peony, Part Deux

What came first, the fabric or the pattern?

Well, I guess if you're being technical, the pattern came first.  Colette's Peony was released in September 2011 and I bought it immediately.  And then I made it in black "poplin"--it was way too light to be real poplin, so thanks Denver Fabrics--and was disappointed by the fit.  I still wore it, but I wasn't thrilled with it.

A month or so ago, I was snooping around on the Westminster site and saw Martha Negley's spring line, "Farmington."  I loved it immediately.  I picked up some olive Feathers from Alewives and found the Peony print at Purl.  

Hmm.  Peony print.  Peony dress.  Okay, they were obviously made for each other.

Ideas on Rooibos

I did some pattern testing over the weekend, which allowed me some time to think about my next project.  This is both a good and a bad thing.  Following Sarai's advice in the Colette Sewing Handbook, I want to have a purposeful wardrobe--not just sewing to sew--but I also tend to be agonizingly over-analytical.  I will sit and worry that I chose the wrong fabric for months.  And if that happens, well, nothing ever gets done.

Last night I got a bee in my bonnet and thought I might start on the Colette Rooibos pattern.  I bought it last summer, intending to be part of the sewalong, and it never happened.  Big surprise.  Anyway, it's on my list of 2012 projects and I thought I might want to finally bite the bullet and just do it.  Last night's insomnia, and working from home today, have given me plenty of time to research the hell out of this dress.

Rooibos images from the Colette site

I have some wool gabardine I originally bought for a fall skirt, as well as some leftover Melody Miller viewfinders that seem to coordinate well.  The wool would be the shell; the viewfinders would be the facings.  I've never piped before, so I'm thinking now is not the time to take the plunge, but I'd need to line the skirt and I've never done that either.  Am I getting in over my head?  What do you think--take the plunge or hold off?

Eleanor is now napping on the fabric.  She couldn't wait.

Labor Day Weekend and Cake

Today seems like a wasted day.  It's rainy and dark and chilly - I should be at home reading on the couch, not sitting at my desk at work!  I definitely shouldn't be wearing a skirt either.  I should be in pajama pants.  Unfortunately, I don't think work cares, so I'm here.  I know it was a three-day weekend and all, but still, work schedules should be based on weather, not hours.

I'm trying to think back over the weekend, remembering what happened, what I can tell you, but I'm coming up with nothing.  I worked from home Friday so it seems like the weekend started forever ago.  Sometimes long weekends are like that, and while I'm not dying to get back to work, the disruption in my schedule is enough to make me crazy.  For example, by Monday afternoon I was about ready to stab Nick in the neck just because I was so annoyed with everything he was doing.  And it's not like he's a generally annoying person, but once you spend long amounts of time with the same person everyday, all day--well, they become the worst person you've ever met.  I'm sure he felt the same about me, so no hard feelings.  This is what happens in a one-bedroom apartment without friends.

We did celebrate his birthday finally.  Though I made him dinner (and cookies!) on his actual birthday, it wasn't until Friday that I had time to make a cake, and Saturday that we were able to drive to Virginia to eat at District Taco.  We also stopped at Total Wine because it is September, and September means fall beers are out.  As a result, over forty beers now reside in our kitchen, but not all of them will fit in our fridge.  We obviously need a bigger place.

We also ate at Taylor Gourmet yesterday.  I read about it in Dwell a couple years ago (while I was still living in Savannah) and was pretty much amazed that they owners were handsome men who could cook.  While we were in Bethesda yesterday we decided to stop for lunch.  We definitely weren't disappointed.  It's a collection of salads, sandwiches and appetizers, but the bread is fresh, the mozzarella is moist, and the turkey is roasted.  They serve Pellegrino and Boylan sodas.  And they have risotto balls!  We weren't hungry enough to buy an appetizer, but damn were they tempting.  I highly recommend it, whether you're on K Street, H Street, or Bethesda Row.

Here are some pictures!

My assistant

Friday was all Christmas, all day

My slanted cakes.  Apparently my oven doesn't heat evenly.  Oh well, once you put some frosting on top, who really cares?

It's officially fall!

Cake!  Ina Garten's coconut cake and frosting, with lemon filling between the layers

Two J. Crew skirts picked up from a thrift store.  Love it!

My new Colette Violet blouse.  Since this picture was taken, I've added navy bias binding and elastic to the sleeves.

So that's about it.  My birthday is this week, and though I've taken the day off, I currently have no plans.  Art museum, maybe?  Sleeping until 2?  (Probably not.)  I'm not sure.  If anyone has any free ideas, please pass on.  I don't have any money, but I have an entire day to myself.

Colette Violet Blouse, or, a Productive Weekend

It's been forever since I last sewed anything. Was the Monique dress the last project? Geez! Remember when I was spitting them out two a day? Okay, me either, but still.

I bought the Violet blouse last March or April and have been terrified of it. Its a beginner pattern and I already have all the skills, but the fit was bothering me: it's loose, deliberately not fitted, and I didn't know how to translate this to my body. I have a short torso, narrow shoulders and big boobs. Loose fitting is normally an unwanted side effect, not an intentional "look."

But earlier this week I decided, to hell with it, and cut it out of some really old Erin Michael for Moda fabric. I bought this in 2007. I actually bought a ton of that collection back then: the paint-by-number birds were turned into the Anna tunic last March, and I had made a Swing bag in July 2007 from the chrysanthemums, hexagons and small floral print. What I wouldn't do to get my hands on that line now.

After we ran errands yesterday (I was in the weird mood to go to the mall. I am never in the mood to go to the mall), I decided I may as well do it to it and started sewing. Let me tell you guys, this blouse went together like a dream. I took my time and really worked hard on it, even though it is a beginner pattern and not necessarily difficult. I just wanted it to turn out well, because I want to be able to wear it and not feel like it overtly says, "Hey! I'm Suzy Homemaker!"

So I'll let you all decide how it looks.




I'm an awful poser. We've decided this before. Also, sorry about the apartment shot. We haven't really done any decorating since moving in...seven months ago.




My favorite flowers in the pattern are the orange and purple ones.












Details! Back gathering, Peter Pan collar, wood buttons (with pencil markings. I always have those).




This has nothing to do with anything but this dude has been hanging out at the front gate of our complex since yesterday. I'd imagine he's keeping us safe.



Oh yeah! Frozen custard with rainbow sprinkles. The stuff dreams are made of.

So now I'm sorta at a stop with sewing, because I don't feel like jumping into anything too involved. Actually, I'd like to start on Grace's birthday presents, but the fabric for two of the outfits isn't released until September and October (Aneela Hoey's Little Apples and Lizzy House's Outfoxed, respectively). Patience!

Have a great week, everyone. I'll see ya around. Hopefully more often!