Feathers and Linen: A Summer Tova

I previewed my Anna Maria Horner Tova top last week, back when it was just a body with no sleeves or cuffs or collar or hem--just a sad piece of beautiful linen.  Unfortunately, I really dropped the ball on working on it this week.  I guess having a new puppy does that to you?  Whatever my excuse (and it changes daily), I finally found time to finish it today, while waiting for my fabric to pre-wash and dry.  Puppy bandanas and beds for all!

The blue shorts were a total coincidence.  Don't you love that?  It's like kismet.  I have a pair of purple shorts that actually match it perfectly, so I'm excited to have two options!  On a side note, with all these colorful shorts, I can't help but think of when I was 11 and I told my mother colored shorts were so unfashionable and I demanded plain denim shorts.  On the first day of school, everyone was wearing different-colored shorts (we lived in South Florida) and I was bummed.  That started a long tradition of her saying "I told you so."

This isn't even an outtake!

I made my other Tova top last spring and wear it constantly, despite sewing the sleeves backward and mending a big hole in the torso.  It's navy gingham and just perfect.  I'm hoping this one gets just as much wear!  The fabric is heavier but not uncomfortable.  Like I said last week, it'll be a nice transitional piece, for now and later in the summer, when it gets chilly at night.  That happens in Charlotte, right?  God help us.

Also, did you see I finally cut my hair?!  It's only been two years since I've actually stepped into a salon--it's about time, people.  I'm not 100% happy with it--there aren't enough layers, and I had to trim a few bits myself because she was a bit conservative with the scissors--but I'm glad to have short hair again.  Yay!

I also made a dog bed with dinosaur fabric this weekend.  Schnoz refuses to sleep on it.  What an angel.

Memorial Day Weekend Sewing

Nick went to Florida for Memorial Day weekend, which left me with over three days of free time.  Well, technically I still have part of tomorrow, but I'll spend that going to the grocery store and cleaning up before he gets home.  Hopefully.  I was supposed to do that today.

Naturally my weekend consisted mostly of sewing.  I used to have no problem being alone--in fact, I preferred it.  But we've lived together for over two years now, and I'm used to having someone there all the time, for better or for worse.  When Nick is gone--which isn't often, but he's gone on vacation a few times without me--I have problems sleeping and staying busy.  I have to work extra hard on it, and I tend to stay up much later than I normally would, just because it freaks me out too much to go to sleep.  Relationships, man.

Anyway, I had a list of goals for the weekend: two quilts, some garments, a dog bed for the Schnoz.  Most of it was finished.  The dog bed was left behind as of tonight, but I've purchased piping and stuffing for it, so it'll happen!  I promise!

One of the garments was the Staple dress.  Previously, I had said how I didn't love the fit, that no matter what I did, it wouldn't work out.  The shoulders were too big, the whole thing was blousy...and it was a bummer because there were a thousand beautiful versions online and I just couldn't seem to get it right!  I decided to give it another go, sizing down to a small this time.

It seems to fit right now!  The shoulders and chest, while still wide, look like they're meant to be, instead of just looking big.  However, my shirring could certainly use some work.  I tried to keep the lines straight.  As you can see, that didn't work so well.

Don't look too closely, okay?

Honest opinion: will it matter?  Something tells me it won't.  If I really get self-conscious, I can always buy a belt, right?  Maybe it won't matter.  Either way, I'm not doing it again, so this is how it goes.

I gave it a two-inch hem because I don't plan on wearing it to work, so shorter hems equal weekend outfits.  Despite that, I know I'll need to wear a slip underneath.  Double-gauze sticks like nothing else in the world!

After the Staple dress was done, I started on my new Wiksten Tova.  I haven't made one in over a year!  My sewing buddy Elizabeth and I decided to hold a Tova Sewtogether for the end of May, with just the two of us!  We're keeping up on Instagram, but I was still behind until today.   

I'm using some of Anna Maria Horner's new linen blend, which I really love.  It's a good weight and will carry over into fall without feeling too light or summery, like handkerchief linen would.

We needed to finish the Tova up to and including the side seams today.  Success!  However: linen on a mannequin?  What a mess.

This weekend's projects were brought to you by Parks and Recreation and Freaks and Geeks.  I'm calling it a night on sewing as of now.  Time to go read some magazines and watch Netflix.  Happy long weekend!

Two More 2209s

Remember back in January when I said I probably wouldn't make the Lisette Passport dress (Simplicity 2209) again, because I don't like to repeat patterns?  So much for that.

I made two more dresses, one from an Anna Maria Horner print and the other from a Denyse Schmidt print.  The AMH version really had me worried--was the print too busy?  Would I look like a crazy person?  Would it scream "homemade"?  In the end, I think it turned out well.  It's really nice for summer.

The Denyse Schmidt version was actually the first one I cut out, but I had some issues along the way.  First, it should have been done last week, but I melted a zipper (yeah, yikes) and G Street was closed all weekend due to the storm.  I also had problems with the zipper, once I got one in (found a white one in my stash--it worked!).  Apparently I measured the seam allowance wrong, because I put it on yesterday to make sure it fit and it was a royal effing mess.  It was so tight I could feel my ribs through the fabric!  It was a mess.  So this morning I ripped it out, basted it back in at a different seam allowance, and finished it up.  I'm more excited to wear this dress in the fall, with a cardigan, tights and boots.  It's 102 degrees here today, so fall is on my mind.

Now I'm at a standstill with my sewing.  I'd like to sew a pair of Iris shorts (a wearable muslin, hopefully), but I need interfacing.  I also wanted to sew Simplicity 1801, but I need interfacing and a zipper for that as well.  There are a bunch of random projects that need just one more thing--a hoop to frame an embroidery gift, a zipper to finish a bag, what have you.  And I have no money, which makes buying these items difficult!  Hopefully this weekend things will change and I'll be ultra-productive.

Also, we have some new puppies at the house:

Until we're out of this dumpy little apartment, these will be the only dogs allowed.  Wah wah.  Oh well, Eleanor is happy about that, I'm sure!

Colette Patterns Embroidery Project

I woke up yesterday completely INSPIRED.  Yes, in all caps.  It had been a rough week at work followed by a rougher Friday night at home and I had gone to bed completely exhausted and over it.  I woke up before 8:00 on Saturday morning with sewing on my mind--I had to get going.  It was one of those forceful, you must do this now feelings, and I had to give in.

I've really been exploring hand embroidery lately (by "exploring," I mean, doing what I want and not always doing it correctly, because I'm too lazy to learn) and, despite the two dresses I have cut out and ready to sew, I've been focused on hand embroidery.  I can do it while watching TV and I'm not all bent over my sewing machine until 1 AM because of it.  It's relaxing.  Even though I love love love to sew, sometimes you need a change of pace!

Anyway, so I woke up yesterday knowing what my next project would be: embroidered versions of all the Colette patterns I own.  I think I own eight, plus the book, and most have line drawings on the front cover (except Chantilly, which is still the old watercolor version).  Line drawings are perfect for embroidery.  Why hadn't I considered this before?

Big Ol' Fail

Let's talk about failure.  I've seen a lot of it lately.

Sometimes I wonder if I bring this onto myself by diving head-first into so many projects--at any given time, I have at least one embroidery project and one sewing project going simultaneously, but more often than not, I have even more.  My attention is always very divided, and I think that's just how I work; I have to multi-task at my day job, so I'm used to splitting my time and priorities and making sure everything gets done on time.  While there's usually no deadline for my personal projects, I get bored if they linger too long.

Naturally, because I'm a bit all over the place, so is my work.  However, I can normally hide that or just push through so I don't have as many challenges.  I'm not saying my work is perfect; the opposite is true, because my thread and bobbin rarely match at the end of a project, my invisible zippers never align at the top, and my buttonholes are a crazy-ass mess.  But I can hide things with a pretty fabric or a cardigan thrown over and no one notices.

This past weekend, however, the fails started rolling in, and apparently, they're sticking around for a while.

I cut out a ton of the Michelle Patterns Basic Wallets a couple months ago.  I could use a fat quarter for each and the only notion besides thread and interfacing was some magnetic snaps.  I thought it sounded great and easy and I'd be able to sell them quickly.

I finally sat down to make these Friday afternoon.  I used a heavyweight fusible interfacing, I Googled how to insert the magnetic snaps, and I was off.  Except they all look like shit.

Those are just a few of the ones I made.  As you can see, a couple are wonky and none have wonderful topstitching.  I'm guessing this is because I used a magnetic snap instead of Velcro, which I thought would be a great substitute but apparently not.  So now I'm sitting on all these crappy little wallets that will never sell.  What a waste of fabric!

I also have been trying to work through my stash, so I set out to cut two Simplicity 2209s from a couple prints I've had.  I've made this dress before, I think the fit is great, and it works really well for the office.  I cut out the first one from a Denyse Schmidt Hope Valley print--a navy basketweave which will translate well with tights and a sweater in the winter.  I also have been itching to use my Anna Maria Horner Summer Totem print I picked up from Cinnamon's in Jacksonville last Christmas.  It's so summery and bright--I was afraid the print would be too much, but I got a lot of support on Instagram, so I stopped hesitating and just did it.  I laid everything out twice, making sure I'd be able to fit both bodice pieces and both skirt pieces (I could finish the bodice with bias tape if I needed to).  I still don't know what happened, but when it came time to cut the skirts, this was in my way:

Kind of a crap picture, but I was over it.  That's the top of the front bodice, taking about four inches of room off the skirt fabric.  Well, that's just fantastic.  It was already a tight squeeze, and being a one-way directional, this just wasn't going to happen.

Do I scrap it or keep going?  I couldn't decide.  I think I spent 30 minutes folding and re-folding, moving the pieces around, shortening the skirt--just trying to make it work.  It wasn't happening.  My plan had failed and I felt like an idiot. 

In the end, I ordered another yard from Hawthorne Threads--that should be enough for one of the skirt pieces and I'll cut the other one out of the messed up fabric.  

It's just so frustrating to have high hopes and big plans and see them crash right in front of you.  I'm certainly no stranger to this kind of heartbreak, but it's still disappointing each and every time.  You always think you've learned!

How do you deal with your failures?  And is that too harsh of a word?  I wanted to use "challenges" but let's keep it real, folks.

Project 14: The Truffle Dress

I saw on a blog recently a quote: Done is better than perfect.  I think this dress really embodies that saying.

The sad thing is, I was so ambitious and so ready for this.  I've been holding onto this voile for months, knowing I'd make this dress with it.  I bought nice batiste lining from G Street.  I even cut out the pieces to make sure the stripes matched.  This has been planned and replanned.  Maybe that's its fatal flaw?  Perhaps I didn't plan for the failure.

And honestly, I think I'm being harsh when I say failure.  Does it fit?  Yes.  Does the zipper work?  Yes, and it's invisible, which is always a plus.  But I built this dress up in my head and of course it didn't work once it was done.  I put the pattern on a pedestal.

Anyway...

Pattern Description
Sleeve dress with darts, bodice lining and invisible zipper.  Pattern also called for a ruffle at waist.

Pattern Sizing
0-18.  I cut an 8 for the bodice and a 10 for the skirt.

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?
I suppose, though I omitted the ruffle.

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Well.  I followed the instructions, but still effed up majorly.  Once the invisible zipper was in and I'd sewn the side seams, I realized my straps were both twisted.  I had to rip out the side and shoulder seams in the bodice, try to restitch that mess correctly, and fix it.  Well, needless to say the shoulders are a hot mess because of it.  Oh, and then once I tried it on, I realized the shoulders were way too big, and I had to make them another 5/8" shorter.  (Really, they could've gone to 3/4", but I was so over it.)

What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?
The darts were my worst enemy.  Seriously, the first hour of sewing was just darts.  Now, I did add in a skirt lining, so that was an additional four darts.  But damn, I'd rather have gathering, and I hate gathering.

Also, at some point I could remember thinking, This looks easy enough!  Oh, how I came to regret those words...

Fabric Used
Anna Maria Horner voile.  I hoarded this stuff after buying it on sale at Del Ray Fabrics this past January.  It's really lovely, too, but the whole time I was sewing I worried about it.  I didn't want to have to toss it!

Oh, and I used a light blue batiste for the lining.

Stylized

Pattern changes or alterations made
I didn't do the waist ruffle thing--I'm just not into that, and I didn't have enough fabric.  After the botched straps I kinda just went with it and figured no one would ever be close enough to see my stitching, so that just was messy.  Oh, and for the life of me I couldn't figure out the Colette instructions on attaching the lining to the zipper, so that was improvised too.

Would you sew it again?
Probably not.  It exhausted me.

Conclusion
Don't hype the pattern up--you'll only let yourself down.  Don't drink coffee at 9 AM and then stop eating until dinner--your anxiety will heighten.  Don't let your new machine get the best of you, and don't get annoyed with your mom--she's only trying to help.

So I'm exhausted from this, and then making dinner and a strawberry cake for dessert...I'd like my next project to just be simple.  Brainless.  Something I know I'll do well with because this was just too much.

What'd you sew over the weekend?

Memorial Day Weekend

Really?  It's over already?  I remember talking to Elizabeth back in February about how we wouldn't have a day off until Memorial Day - weeks, months, practically years away!  And now it's over and tomorrow is June and ohmygod it'll be Christmas before we know it.  I'm not ready, I can tell you that much.

It was a fantastic weekend, though.  I worked from home half of the day Friday, after having meetings and meetings and meetings all week, which was a nice way to end it all.  I also decided while working from home that I wouldn't focus on cleaning - Nick will be home this weekend and can do it then.  Instead, 16 and Pregnant was my background music and I spent hours building spreadsheets and merging cells.  Sounds boring, but I kind of like that tedious stuff to clear my head.

Anyway, let's get cracking on what I did over the weekend:

Friday night after dinner (black bean tortilla pie), I set to work on an Oliver + S Ice Cream top for Miss Grace, using Heather Ross Far Far Away II.  Have I already posted about this?  I don't think I have.  Sorry for the poor quality; apparently my flash wasn't a fan.  Anyway, it's Sleeping Beauty themed, and the yoke is roses.  The back button is from a pair of Gap jeans I haven't worn in years.  I finished it in only a few hours, which was refreshing.

Saturday was a big day.  Here's a little back story: Montgomery County, Maryland, has ridiculous alcohol taxes.  You will easily pay $16 for a six-pack of beer.  Nick and I drink craft beers, so we're used to paying more, but it's completely ridiculous.  They're also upping the tax come January.  Ugh.

So we went to Total Wine in Alexandria.  We loved Total Wine in Jacksonville but haven't been since we moved.  The GPS must have known it was a beautiful day, because instead of taking us along 495, it took us on Clara Barton Parkway, along the C&O Canal, through Georgetown and Rosslyn and past Arlington Cemetery.  It was quite a sight, considering Rolling Thunder was in town.  Anyway, that second picture is of all our beer and cider from Total Wine--and it cost us about a third of what it would have been here in MoCo.  Sorry to bootleg, but we're on a budget.

After Total Wine, we went to District Taco in Arlington.  I frequent the DT Food Truck when it's here in Rosslyn.  They have awesome burritos.  This time I got a bowl and chips and a Boylan soda.  They don't have any Coke or Pepsi products, just Boylan!  Everything is also fresh and made right there, including the chips.  I can't wait to go back.

That last picture is of the Oliver + S Family Reunion dress for Grace, made with Anna Maria Horner.  I'm very happy with how this dress ended up, though I did have an issue with the hem facing.  The directions say to "cut 2 on fold," but there's so much extra fabric, I think that's a misprint.  I made it work--lots of easing and what essentially looks like an inside ruffle--so hopefully Grace won't think it's the most terrible thing she's ever seen!

Sunday...Sunday...what'd we do Sunday?  Oh, we went grocery shopping, which is always an adventure.  I also cut out the Colette Patterns Sorbetto top, which is free through that link.  We had decided to finally go see a movie together--the first in ten months of dating--so we went to Five Guys for dinner and saw Bridesmaids.  People, this movie is amazing.  If you haven't seen it yet, you must, as soon as possible.  I'm not normally a Kristen Wiig fan (based solely on her SNL characters), but this movie made me love her, Maya Rudolph, everyone.  Go see it!

Also, I asked Nick for that hot pink KitchenAid mixer seen above, but so far, it hasn't arrived.  It would look fantastic next to my blue mixer.

Yesterday, Memorial Day, we went to National Harbor.  It was a hell of an adventure getting there though.  I had to go to the Harley-Davidson store to pick up some presents for Aidan, Savannah's brother.  There was no way I was only showing up with gifts for her, and if I'd have made him clothes, he probably would have slapped me.  So I decided to get him a Harley shirt and a toy because he's obsessed with my dad's and his dad's bikes. 

We set out to go to Old Glory HD in Laurel, about 11 miles away.  On the way there, my hubcap came off on the Beltway.  Thankfully it didn't kill anyone, but still--and now my car is pretty ghetto.  Anyway, so we get there, and it's closed for Memorial Day.  Oh, okay.  Considering, again, that Rolling Thunder is in town, we're pretty surprised.  So I call Annapolis HD--it's closed too.  I finally call the National Harbor HD, and thankfully they're open, but my GPS doesn't recognize the address.  We got lost no fewer than five times in NE Washington, D.C.  Interesting, let me tell you.

Anyway, so we went there, I picked up a few things, we ate lunch.  The above pictures are from National Harbor; the first is "The Awakening," a huge statue that used to be at Hain's Point in DC, where I had seen it ten years ago when we first moved here.  The second is the Peeps store.  Yep, Peeps, those little marshmallow dudes my mom loves so much.  I'm not into them, but the next time my mom's up, we may need to go there.

I also sewed together the Sorbetto top, which I'm less than thrilled with.  It's a free pattern, so I'll go with it, but it's very short.  I have the shortest waist known to man--how does this look on normal people?  I made it with some cheap gingham I bought at JoAnn's Saturday.  Nick likes it, I'm more "meh."

I also cut out another Ice Cream dress from Sherbet Pips for Grace.  I'd like to get that done tonight and tomorrow so I can pack it up with her other outfits.

So it was a busy weekend!  Sorry to bore you--hopefully I didn't.  This week is busy, and the next few weeks are full with family and friends.  And before I know it, it will be July.  Oh my god...

Fabric Friday

I just wanted to share a picture real quick of the fabric I received today.  All fabrics were bought on sale at Pink Chalk Fabric earlier this week.  The Ice Cream Dress pattern was bought directly from Oliver + S on sale (it's the smaller size range), and the Puppet Show pattern was bought over the phone from Pieces and Patches in Lexington, SC, because I'm a freak and decided I needed it so badly.  So.  Badly.

I'm still waiting on some Sherbet Pips yardage from Sew Mama Sew, but maybe that will come this weekend.

God, I love shopping.  And sales.  Retail therapy at its finest.

Lotus Pond dress

I finished my first summer dress last night, Simplicity 2584.  I modified it a bit, but all in all, I'm pretty happy.

The fabric is Kona Solids and Amy Butler's Lotus collection, which I've had in my stash for roughly four years and bought before I could even sew, holding onto the hopes that my mom would make me something (Ha!).  I never knew what to do with it--purse?  skirt?  shirt?--but finally it came to me after buying this pattern in February.  I think it's a light, fun print without being childish.

I made view B but modified it to be more like view D.  First, I omitted the sleeves.  Summer is hot, and if I want sleeves, I'll grab a cardigan.  I also omitted the tuck at the bottom.  I started folding to see what it would look like, but, with the patter, it would have messed up the flow. 

It's the length of view B, but I snatched D's armhole binding to finish the arms.  I also ended up taking it in even more.  Boxy isn't a good look for me.

Finally, I decided it didn't need a back zipper, once I read reviews that so many others were doing this.  After a quick Googling (just cut on the fold), I was done.

It took me about two days to sew, but that's because I was sewing between work and dinner, and still working on dinner in the mean time.  I'm a crazy multi-tasker, so I'd sew and press, turn on the oven to preheat, sew a little more, get the water boiling, sew some more, etc.  What do people do with only one project?

I have a ton of both materials left over, so it may become an Ice Cream Dress for Grace.  I have been all about the stash-bustin' lately, mostly to make room for all the Aneela Hooey, Anna Maria Horner and Heather Ross I just bought.  (On sale, don't freak.)  (Though I can't imagine why you'd freak unless you were Nick, and he's already heard about my process and still doesn't care.)

What's next?  I don't know.  I have a hard time making things for myself because, well, do I really want to face my measurements?  No.  No I do not.  Also it's hard for me to choose just one project.  So I have a pile of fabric for me and a pile of fabric for Grace and I'll go from there.  I have some new patterns coming in this week, so maybe that will jumpstart things.  Also, did you not see how much fabric I just bought?  Good god!

The Socialite Dress

I can't believe I forgot to tell everyone I finished the Anna Maria Horner Socialite dress!  Remember when I said I wouldn't be sewing until Jake and Kali were gone?  Well...I lied.  They were gone for hours Saturday and Sunday nights, which gave us plenty of time to watch movies, fart around on the internet and sew.  Well mostly I sewed and he listened to the machine.

I apologize for the crap picture.  There are few places in our apartment to hang something, so I keep resorting to the bifold doors near the bathroom.  I should just buy some of those 3M sticky hooks and keep one on the wall at all times.

I made it with Joel Dewberry Nature Valley fabric that I picked up at StitchDC in February.  To be completely honest with you, I wasn't very excited about sewing this.  I bought the pattern when I first decided to start sewing and picked up the fabric on a whim.  I put it off and put it off (and read the review at Sew, Mama, Sew millions of times) and finally said, "No more!"  And I went for it.

I'm...content with the results.  I like the look of the dress.  It'll work well into fall, if it ever decides to warm up here.  I don't like how I had to hand sew the facing.  That was awful because I'm a terrible hand-sewer.  I also don't like that the medium, though it said it would fit, is very, very tight across the chest.  I'm guessing the gathering has something to do with it, but it's also the saving grace: while it feels tight, so tight that Nicholas had to help me get it on and off, it doesn't look like it.  These boobs aren't going anywhere, so I'll just have to handle it.

In short, I'm not making another.  I'm sending my cousin Jesse the pattern and, if the facing didn't look so godawful, I'd send her the dress as well.  Oh well.  I'll get some use out of it, I'm sure.

So now I'm not sure what to do next.  I think I'm abandoning the baby clothes for my former co-worker because, well, I just don't care about it anymore.  I only cut out one fabric instead of all three, and if anyone I know is having a boy, I'll just finish them up pretty quickly for them.  I do have a charm pack waiting on me, so maybe I'll start that.  And I have my Betz White sewing class coming in just over a week, which I'm really looking forward to.  Vintage pillowcases becoming baby clothes and lady skirts?  Count me in.

(One final note: if anyone loves Tina Fey as much as I do, check out the review of her new book, Bossypants, over at Slate.  You don't need to agree with the message as long as you find the excerpts pretty effing funny.)