Cutting Into Liberty: An Anxiety-Ridden Hawthorn

I detailed my fall sewing plan a couple weeks ago, and between quilts, decided to get started.  A houndstooth dress is rushing the season, and I haven't purchased my wool coating or flannel for jammies just yet, but I had everything I needed to make my fall Hawthorn blouse.

After my last Hawthorn, though, I was a bit wary, especially cutting into Liberty.  I have to remind myself sometimes that it's just fabric; if something doesn't fit or is a bust, I can repurpose whatever I've cut and put it in something new, though smaller.  

Obviously, one of my alterations this time was to make the blouse version, version 1, with short sleeves.  I debated going sleeveless, because lord knows I love my cardigans.  But, short sleeves really do offer more versatility, especially in the South, when warm weather can stretch into October (though we've had some cool days so far!).

I also adjusted the side seams.  They're 3/8" instead of 5/8".  They're still snug, but I would say "form-fitting" instead of "sausage casing."  You can see in the above picture I thought I was being fun using bright red buttons, but they blended right into the fabric.  Womp womp.

I added a hem facing to the peplum instead of hemming it.  I just used some black bias binding.  This added structure and really didn't take away much length.  I love the design of this peplum.  While I wear my Vogue 8815 pretty often, the peplum has started to hang weird.  I think this one is much more organic and fluid.

I finished this blouse last Sunday--also the day I started it.  I bought a new pencil skirt from Loft and thought, I'll model it!  Well, like the fool I am, I forgot to check tracking and the skirt still isn't here.  Argh.  Hopefully soon.  I haven't worn it to work yet.

All in all, I'm much happier with this Hawthorn, and I'm hopeful it'll get lots of wear this fall!  It's officially the most expensive blouse in my closet, as the fabric was over $80, but hey, buy what makes you happy.

Fall Sewing Plans

A third post...in one week?  You're asking yourself, is Emily feeling okay?  Well, no, I'm not.  I'm sick in bed at home, presumably with food poisoning, so I need something to pass the time between work emails.  Can I just say, isn't working remotely such a wonder?  I'm someone who feels terrible for missing work, and I don't take "mental health days" or anything (OCD with some overachiever playing heavily), so being able to work while propped up with pillows and some pets is fine with me.

Anyway, it's mid-August, which means fall is practically here.  Can you smell it?  In Charlotte, while we're a ways away from actual fall--at least a month--it is getting cooler and the light has changed outside.  Soon Pumpkin Spiced lattes will be available and I'll buy some mums for the front porch.  Soon!

I would like to sew some garments for fall, despite my lack of sewn clothing lately.  I find fall and spring clothes the best to sew, perhaps because they're my favorite seasons.  I'd love to sew more summer dresses, but if I even think of wearing a lining in the summer, I melt immediately.  Just like that, in my closet, from heat exhaustion.  And let's not get started on winter.  But fall is inspirational and beautiful.  I must plan!

Here's what I've planned so far:

First and foremost, I need a Colette Anise.  Need it!  Version 1, with covered buttons, please.  My mom gave me black-and-white houndstooth wool, which I was so excited to use...until I saw I'd need over three yards, and only had 2.5.  If you've made this, how are the cutting layouts?  Would 2.5 work?  Otherwise, I need to find some wool!

Next is the Colette Hawthorn (again), version 1.  I do enjoy a good peplum!  My reservations about this pattern are all about the bust, but I think reducing the seam allowances will help with that.  Plus, I have this amazing cut of Liberty stashed:

I could wear this with black pants to work, jeans on the weekend, and pencil skirts too!  I'd like to find red buttons but those are negotiable.

Third on the list--another Rooibos!  I really love the one I made last winter but it's wool gabardine and is heavy.  However, it's really cute and fits well.  Now, here's a crazy thought: what if I used the black and white houndstooth for this dress?  Is it too much?  For reference, here's a good example of the size of the pattern:

Is it too crazy?  In a bad way?  I need your thoughts!

Do PJs count?  These are on my to-do list for sure.  I change into pajamas as soon as I get home from work, so I really can't have too many.  I've heard awesome things about these--the fit is spot-on!--and really want to make some comfy pajama pants for fall--and also for Christmas!  (I can't be the only one who wears new pajamas on Christmas!)

Birch Fabrics is debuting their Charley Harper line--I'm dying, it's so good--and they'll have a flannel line!  I should use the cardinals for Christmas, right?

But for everyday use, Cloud9 has teamed up with Rae from Made by Rae for her new flannel line, Fanfare.  I think the Confetti print is perfect for jammies:

What are your fall sewing plans?  I'm also very excited to see the new patterns come out this fall.  I'm sure I'll need those too!

Hawthorn Dress: Wearable or Wearable Muslin?

If you follow the indie sewing pattern world at all, I'm sure you were part of the mania this week when Colette Patterns released their new pattern, the Hawthorn dress.  A classic shirtdress with a few variations, it seems extremely wearable, and I was so excited to see it debut!  The Laurel left me longing for a bit more, and I wasn't disappointed at all!

I quickly bought the pattern and it was delivered Friday.  I cut it out and sewed up the bodice last night, and today, finished the dress!

I used red and white seersucker my mom bought in spring 2005--I originally had plans to make a Laura Ashley halter dress (I can't seem to find the pattern now, so I'm sure it's long out-of-print) and it never happened because I was in high school.  My mom hung onto the fabric and gave it to me, along with piles of other apparel fabrics, this past March.

My biggest complaint?  The bust.  I always cut an 8 bodice and 10 skirt in Colette.  And everything always fits close to perfectly.  This time?  Not so much.  Anyone else had this problem?  I have another planned and I'll adjust the seam allowances at least 1/4" on either side.  I used French seams and didn't try on my dress as I made it, so I guess I deserve the complaint.

Awesome part of this pattern?  The semi-circle skirt.  I love circle skirts, but hate how they use ridiculous amounts of fabric.  With this pattern, I get a decent twirl and minimal amounts of yardage...even though I had seven yards of that seersucker available.  Yeah.  Seven.

So overall I'm really happy with this pattern, but the bust bums me out.  I can wear a camisole under it to flatten out my boobs a little, or wear some Spanx, I guess.  It is a cute dress, though, and is a good stand-in for a muslin, considering I learned about the fit AND didn't pay a dime for the fabric.  Yay!  Future Fourth of July dress?  I think so.

Another Spring Dress?!

I know.  I KNOW.  The high today was 53 and I'm about to show you a sleeveless dress made with the lightest cotton ever.  Excuse me for being an idiot.

However, in my defense, next week will be in the 70s, and I live in the south, so we'll only get warmer from there, right?  That's my wish, anyway: to feel warm again.

After I finished my shirtdress from the last post, and sometimes while I was working on my shirtdress from the last post, I started a Colette Chantilly dress.  I cut them both out the same night.  Do you do that?  I find it's easier for me to stay focused if I can cut everything at once.  I'll cut out two or three skirts or shirts or dresses at once just to have it done and over with, because cutting is a necessary evil.  And then this Chantilly sat for a couple days until I ran out of interfacing, so I started sewing darts, gathers, and all those other fun, non-interfaced things.

I actually skipped around a lot on this dress.  I made the bodice, and then the yoke; I sewed the skirts and the bodice before even thinking about the lining; I inserted the zipper before I finished the yoke.  I guess the only thing I did "right" was I hemmed it very last, after everything else was done.

I used fabric by Sarah Watson for Art Gallery.  I know a lot of people have beef with quilting cotton and that's fine; I refuse to use anything polyester, so we all have our differences.  But this is seriously the softest and smoothest quilting cotton!  It felt more like lawn or voile with a crisper hand.  It was just lovely.

I originally bought this fabric for this dress, in fact--I've had it sitting in my stash since around Christmas, just waiting.  I had to purchase lining, of course, and notions, and why make a spring dress in the middle of winter?  I'll tell you why: so you aren't so rushed, worrying you won't finish it in time for a nice-weather weekend.  

If the back looks a little wonky, it's because it's the result of an optical illusion--the yoke and bodice somehow matched up pretty well--and it's probably also a little wonky.

I did try this on the other night and Nick said it brought "attention to my boob area, so that's great."  Thanks honey!  What a pal.  I do plan on wearing a cardigan.  I like that this dress is so floaty and light: quilting cotton and cotton batiste make for a meringue-like consistency in dresses.  I'm really excited to wear it when I no longer shiver from standing in a shadow.  Please, oh please, let that be soon!

I'd also like to note that this dress was the first pattern I bought when I decided to start sewing.  I'd never heard of Colette, never seen anything by Sarai, but came across this on Fabric.com.  In fact, I even emailed them to ask if dotted Swiss would be appropriate (duh, Emily, they said in nicer tones).  I ended up using the dotted Swiss on a Banksia top long ago, and hung onto this pattern until the right fabric came along.  I'm glad I waited, because this dress stumped me at some points, and I feel like I can pretty easily coast through most projects now.  But my linings didn't match, my armholes were uneven--messy, but worth it.

What's next on my sewing agenda?  I'm not sure!  I have some bee blocks to do but that's about it.  I mean, I do have stacks and stacks of fabric I should probably use, but I'm going to take this weekend--my mom's birthday weekend!--to figure out what's next.  Another Truffle?  Another Cambie?  An Alma?  Who knows.  Suggestions, as always, are welcome!

A Shirtdress for the Early Spring Blues

If you're in America, or even in Europe from what I hear, you're wondering where spring has been lately.  It's cold and snowy or rainy just about everywhere, and end-of-March is resembling beginning-of-February.  And it sucks.

We've had a few nice weekends here in Charlotte--breezy and highs near 80s--and we've spent them outside.  Because that's what you do when it's nice.  Unfortunately, we got used to it, and this past week, with its rain and frost, even, made me sad and nostalgic for summer.  I'm learning that I'm not the cold-weather girl I used to be.  Besides, I look way better in shorts than I do in parkas.  (Who doesn't?)

I know this shit weather won't last forever, so I've started my spring sewing.  A bit late, maybe, because these next could of dresses were on my project plan for February, but whatever, at least they're getting done.

The first dress I have to show--the second won't be for a couple days--is McCall 6696, a new spring pattern.

Things were moody and wintery this morning, so displaying the dress in the window seemed like a good enough shot to me.  

The fabric is embroidered cotton from Denver Fabrics.  I love their free shipping sales and picked it up earlier this year for $5 a yard.  It was really easy to work with, the feel of cotton lawn, and it'll be great for summer, I think.

Twins

I liked some things about this pattern, but I will say, I remember why I don't use McCall patterns.  After being spoiled with Colette, Sewaholic, and even Simplicity, it's hard to go back to a McCall pattern.  There are very few directions concerning things like plackets, and they also had you hem the dress before adding in the front band.  Very strange!  So I did things my way, knowing my way around a placket by now, and it all turned out fine.

Oh right--things I liked.  Well, it's a shirtdress, which is something I love.  It has pockets, too!  The pattern is sized by cup, which is something I think all patterns everywhere should have.  It also has pieces for a straight skirt, cap sleeves, long sleeves, and a separate slip.  I have plans for the long sleeve-straight skirt combo later.

Man, I love this fabric.  Anything resembling dotted swiss has a permanent home in my closet.

According to Accuweather, our temperatures should start climbing to the 60s and 70s next week, which means I can wear this and my chambray dress finally.  Right now they're hanging in my sewing room closet, waiting for someone to love them.  I'll be there soon, my babies.

I said I was working on another dress: Colette's Chantilly dress.  I've really skipped around and need to sew down the yoke facing, finish the underarms (that's another story), attach the lining to the zipper, and sew up the hem.  If someone wants to give me some motivation, that'd be great!

I also have to add this, just because.

Stay warm, friends!

Project 23: the Colette Rooibos Dress

You guys!  I'm back in the saddle!  I haven't embroidered in a week and I completed something on my to-do list.  I feel like my old self again!

We're all moved in and we've caught up on all the sleep we lost in November.  The boxes are all put away--there's one left in the bedroom--and we even have a Christmas tree up!  If you've been following me on Squaring Up, you saw my sewing room last week, which is amazing and wonderful and I love it so much.  I don't regret moving here for a second; we're so much happier, we have more room, and we can afford to eat!  Yippee!

Okay, let's get back to business.  It's still 2012, and I'm still working on my New Year's Resolutions.  I don't think I'm going to finish the whole list--unless some miracle drops all the patterns and fabric on my doorstep tomorrow, and that didn't happen with the Minoru jacket--but let's focus on the positive.  I completed another project this week!

I bought my Rooibos pattern and this wool gabardine in summer 2011.  Since then, I've been planning and hemming and hawing over it, too anxious to actually make a cut.  Finally, after organizing my sewing room, I decided to just jump into it!  I had the skillset and I wanted to wear a wool dress before spring came again (which would happen sooner here than in D.C.).  I cut everything out last week and finished it about an hour ago.  Here we go!

Pattern description
Sleeveless dress with collar and defined front pockets

Pattern sizing
0-18.  I cut an 8 for the bodice and a 10 for the skirt (my usual Colette sizes).

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?
Yes!

Funky wool draping

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, and I'm not sure if that was because it's a Colette pattern or because I'm more advanced than I was a year ago, when I first wanted to attempt it.  But everything went smoothly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

It's the Rooibos dress!  There are a thousand out there, and the inspirational pictures on Flickr just made me want my own more and more.  The lines, fun details, and clear instructions made this a really enjoyable experience.  I really love the front and back necklines as well.

Fabric used

Aubergine wool gabardine from Denver Fabrics for the shell; FreeSpirit Solids in Nugray for the contrast; poly lining from Joann for the skirt lining (yeah, this baby is lined!)

Pattern design changes or alterations made

Besides the sizing, I don't think I changed anything!  I didn't do a blind hem, as is recommended; if I have a blind hem foot, I don't know how to use it, and today wasn't the day to learn!

Would you sew it again?
I'd love to!  Maybe in something brighter for spring.  I think the wool is great but I'd like something I can wear in warm weather. This is definitely a winter dress.

Conclusion

I'm so happy I finally took the plunge!  I inserted piping for the first time with this dress, and added a little rhinestone button at the collar for some fanciness.  I think this will look great with a cardigan or even a turtleneck under it--I have a bunch from Target that have three-quarter sleeves.  I rocked the jumper in first grade; I think I can do it again.

Piping!

The only thing is...I haven't finished the seams!  I really need a serger, but I'm wondering if pinking won't cut it and I'll need to bind these seams.  What do you think?  How would you finish them?

I'd also like to note that this dress was sewn while watching the first season of the Mary Tyler Moore show on Hulu.  I truly believe that if more young girls watched this instead of the Disney channel, there'd be way fewer hoebags out there.

Yay!  It feels so good to be back.

Project 22: The Colette Sencha blouse

Two for two on my fall sewing goals!  Woo!  Unfortunately, something tells me I'll miss my Minoru jacket deadline, but you know what?  I'm going to stay optimistic and hope that the fabric and pattern land on my doorstep this month.  I've stopped buying fabric for the time being because I want an iPhone November 1 (when I'm eligible for an upgrade) and I don't want to eat ketchup packets because I can't afford real food.  So far, I'm doing okay.  I went to Joann's today (and saved crazy amounts of money) and didn't come home with a single cut of fabric.  However, I came home with thread, stabilizer, batting, and rotary blades instead.  This may not excite you, but damn, it gets me all wound up!

Okay, on to the pattern review.  But first, a question: if you haven't made a Sencha yet, well, why not?

Pattern description
Button-back blouse with cap sleeves and waist tucks

Pattern sizing
0-18.  This is a 6, as the size 8 (my usual Colette top size) would've been too loose.

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?
Yes! (I always consider that a success.)

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Oh my gosh, yes.  This shirt went from start to finish in about 2.5 hours.  I bought buttons today--that was the only thing holding me back from completing it Friday night.  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

As happy as I am with the outcome, and the fact that it was a quick sew, I do have a couple things I'd alter:

• When I have it on (see below), there's a lot of extra fabric between my armpits and my bust.  I'm going to guess this is because I have such narrow shoulders.  I should look into working on that.
• It's very short!  I have a short torso and normally everything is too long on me, but I'll need a camisole under this to wear it to work.

I can't wait until I have a house where I can actually take pictures of myself.  This is BS.  Also this photo makes me look so hippy.

Fabric used

Woven in Poppy from Lotta Jansdotter's Bella line.  I originally bought this with a Macaron in mind, but I really like it as a Sencha.

Pattern design changes or alterations made

Very minor ones: I didn't catchstitch the inside of the sleeves or the back placket.  For the back, I decided the buttonholes and buttons would keep the placket in place, and on the sleeves, I topstitched the edges.

Would you sew it again?

I might!  I'd like to try the other necklines, with the tucks or the tie.  Maybe in a fancier fabric, though.

Conclusion

I think this is a great fall blouse!  Yay orange!

Yesterday we had big plans to go to a pig roast in Palmyra celebrating the new By Hand magazine.  Well, that failed after we sat in traffic on I-95 for what seemed like forever.  Please tell me why we live in a region with rush hour on the weekend.  Okay, turn around, get back on I-95 north--we decided to head to Sur La Table and Total Wine, and then up to Frederick to check out the area.  Neither of us had been, except to drive through on our way to Ohio.  It's such a pretty drive up I-270: once you're in Frederick County, the mountains come into view, and at this time of year everything is red, yellow and orange.

Downtown Frederick is a cute area with a sweet downtown.  I mean, first you have to drive through the ghetto to get there, but once you're there, you're fine.  We stopped in a record store and walked through the main strip, and tried to get dinner at Brewer's Alley but they had other ideas: our wait was over twice as long as they originally estimated and when we told them we were leaving, they weren't the most sympathetic.  By that point, I had been hungry for five hours, so we drowned our hunger sorrows in Five Guys.  Thank god for French fries.

Today has been busy: besides the aforementioned trip to Joann's, I also went grocery shopping and have been baking like a crazy person all afternoon.  I have a potluck tomorrow at work and offered to bring the desserts.  See below: doughnut cake (thanks to my oven being uneven, it got a bit too brown) (also I don't have a cake tester, which explains the knife mark!) and chai tea cookies, and I just pulled some pumpkin bread out of the oven.  Isn't fall the best?

Have a good week, everyone.  Hopefully I won't be a stranger as much soon!

Project 20: Colette Beignet skirt

Phew, it's been a fun weekend!  I'm definitely not ready to go back to work tomorrow, but I'm feeling good about this week, y'all.  Let's put that positive energy out there, okay?

I didn't plan on making the Beignet next, but yesterday was Quilters Take Manhattan in New York (duh) and I wanted something new to wear.  Something that would make my $6 Target tank much more fashionable.  I know that sounds impossible, because how could that become even better?, but regardless, I love a challenge.  The Beignet has been on my to-do list forever but I've always been really nervous about it.  I'm so short-waisted, and definitely not thin, that I thought it would look dumpy.  I've seen some versions that make me question the maker's cognitive skills, and I didn't want that.

Okay, okay, I'll get into the review, so you can find out what I really thought!

Action shot!

Pattern Description

High-waisted paneled skirt with twelve front buttons as the closure

Pattern Sizing

0-18.  This is a 10, but I think I could've cut an 8 in the waist and graded for the hips.

Did it look like the drawing on the envelope when you were done with it?

Yep!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Surprisingly, yes.  For an intermediate pattern, I was thrilled that it went so quickly.  I suppose it was rated that for the lining and buttons, but neither of those are new to me, so it was easier than I expected.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Hmm...I love the lining.  It looks so great inside.  Besides that, I felt pretty even-keel toward everything.  Nothing was frustrating, but I also didn't make stupid mistakes because I wasn't paying attention, which happens when things are too easy.

Another action shot!  This is one of my favorite Denyse Schmidt quilts.

Fabric used

The shell is wool corduroy from Denver Fabrics.  I bought it last fall when I planned on making a lot of skirts.  I love it as a skirt, but it was a beast to work with: it frayed, shed, and linted (is that a verb?) everywhere.  What a mess.  The lining is just poly lining from JoAnn's-nothing special there.

Pattern alterations or design changes made

I left off the belt loops and the belt.  This comes up way too high for me to tuck anything in, so a belt was unnecessary.

Would you sew it again?

I'm not sure!  Maybe something fun in twill for the summer would be cute, and I did like the cut, but the waist is just so high!

Conclusion

I like it!  I'm looking forward to wearing it with tights when it gets a bit chillier.

We had a great time in New York Saturday, and it made me forget all about my sewing machine pissing me off on Friday night.  I met Denyse Schmidt and just about died--I'm sure I made a fool of myself.  Liesl Gibson sat behind us and I regret not saying hi, but I feel bad approaching these "celebrities" (to us), you know?  Also, my blood sugar had bottomed out and all I wanted was some cookies before I flipped a table.

I'm going to have my full recap of the event on Squaring Up tomorrow morning, if you're interested!  Next month, we're venturing to Palmyra, Virginia, for a fall festival and By Hand magazine launch party (and pig roast!  Mmm).  After that, who knows!

How was your weekend?  What'd you sew??